101 Uses For Duct Tape

Duct Tape, what useful stuff. You bought a bunch to hold your basement ductwork together. But, what to do with those leftover rolls? Well, to find out, I asked a few hundred "new friends" that I met at a recent convention. The creative brainpower was inspiring as they came up with 101...and here they are, the most resourceful activities ever devised:

1. Glasses. An acceptable way to get through to your next emergency optometry appointment...as long as you don't bump into anyone you actually know.
2. Tent repair. Save your camping trip should a tent pole break or the canvas rip.
3. Canoe patch. An ingenious fellow saved his five day canoe trip by duct taping a massive first-day hole that developed. The pressure from the water (outside) helped to hold the tape in place. He re-taped each night. The canoe was so badly battered at the end of the trip that he left it there. The unused duct tape roll made it home.
4. Tear in your Gortex. Rainwater dripping into a torn seam is one irritating thing.
5. Guerrilla-waxing for the ultimate outdoorswoman.
6. Secure the mouth of a 12' alligator, as done by the Florida Power and Light while working at the Orlando Airport.
7. Clothes line in the middle of nowhere from those handy Boy Scout Folks.
8. "X" your luggage for easier identification among the hundreds of other luggage in the airport luggage pickup carousel.
9. As used by Homeland security....foot placement markers in the airport screening areas.
10. Reflective jogging tape.
11. Patch your beach ball or kiddie pool.
12. Hurricane force-rated kite string.
13. Bicycle seat repair.
14. Practical joke toilet paper.
15. No gunny sack for the sack race? Tape contestants legs together instead.
16. Catch a bug. I mean, if you've been shipwrecked and you're really bored.
17. Church "Seat Belt" for visiting nephew.
18. Window screen "hole" tape.
19. Keep your water cooler waterproof.
20. Pimp out your son's tricycle.
21. Band-Aid on the spot. Precautions should be taken during the "rip-off". Do remember that your skin can't breathe through it.
22. Pull out a splinter.
23. Secure an ice pack to your swollen ankle while hiking.
24. Sunscreen for bald guys.
25. Ski bindings. Tape your ski boots down should you break a binding.
26. Keep yourself warm. Wrap duct tape around your waist should the zipper on your one piece ski suit or snowmobile suit break.
27. Wart remover. Put duct tape on wart. Remove tape and scrub area each night until wart is gone. The wart actually suffocates.
28. Substitute for fly paper.
29. Broken Pencils. Tape the break or eraser for extended life.
30. Book binders.
31. Label stuff.
32. Stick pictures up in your locker.
33. College student holder. Truly! A post-architectural student reportedly taped a fellow student up about 2' on a wall. Also, holds up smart-ass naval officers.
34. Wild party beer security system. Duct tape your beer to your hand.
35. Tape around your cold soda to help keep it cool.
36. Potato chip bag sealer.
37. Create impromptu sporting event field lines.
38. Mark your blind date (a twin) so you know which one is yours.
39. Mark the center line in your dorm room for territorial purposes.
40. Stop your roommate from talking.
41. Bookmarker. Fold a section of tape in half.
42. Staple replacement.
43. Ceiling fan chain extender.
44. Bird house roofing system
45. Dog leash. The puppy chewed through the required legal restraint. Fast thinking and some duct tape kept this responsible pet owner from a ticket.
46. Make a dog toy. Cover newspaper in various shapes for more interesting toys.
47. Train your cat to keep off your table by adhering the tape to the table edges (sticky side up).
48. Secure your son's pet snake lid down for added peace of mind for your visiting mother-in-law.
49. Remove the tape from your son's pet snake's lid to ensure a timely departure of your visiting mother-in-law.
50. Patching a pocket or torn pants. Keeps the important stuff in.
51. Lint roller. Use when running out the door to an important date or meeting.
52. Metallic looking boots. A daughter used duct tape on her boots for a "trashion-fashion statement" when going to a show.
53. Make a spaceman's suit.
54. Hold mannequins wigs in place.
55. Repair smashed pumpkins.
56. Create "Faux" Knives, Swords and Shields for effect.
57. School play set fixer-upper.
58. Hold the paper towel dispenser together in men's restrooms.
59. Hold the "Out of Order" sign up over the urinals that don't work, in the men's public restrooms.
60. Shoe flopping? Boots clopping? No need.
61. Blister prevention. Soften the inner heel of your new dress shoes.
62. Jock strap. (Who thinks of these things?)
63. Suspenders, belt.
64. Wallet or purse handle repair.
65. Make your pants bigger.
66. Make your pants smaller.
67. Gift Wrap Tape. There are some great colors even purple. Check it out.
68. Photo and Poster Tape. Drywall repair time saver tip: Use on windows.
69. Repairs, vacuum cleaner hose, steam cleaner hose and garden hose.
70. Instant rope for tying down that Big Box Store impulse purchase.
71. Temporary Baby Proofer. Softened sharp furniture corners and cover electrical outlets.
72. Diaper tape substitute.
73. Diet Assistant. Tape your refrigerator shut at night.
74. Glass safety. House or car broken windows to hold or cover jagged edges.
75. Picture Framing Tape: Seal the back of the picture for a more "professional" job.
76. Quick Temporary Fix for car or truck fenders. One van driver made from Michigan to Tennessee without having to re-tape up his front fender.
77. Re-attach your muffler or tail pipe.
78. Re-attach your rear view mirror, side mirror, radio antenna......
79. Uninsured motorist friend for securing broken out side/rear windows.
80. Create a mud flap.
81. Make a tow rope.
82. Spare Keys. Tape the spare house key in a secret spot to avoid the 'lost keys' panic or to allow a neighbor to check on the house while away.
83. Be a Hero. Tape a secret spare key to the underside of the wife's car. When she calls because she locked the key in the car. Instant rescue. And you didn't even have to leave home.
84. Hold your mailbox to your post after a tornado, or wild driver accident.
85. Wrap your aluminum garden tool handles with duct tape to prevent the oxidized grey stuff from getting on your hands.
86. Quickie crime scene tape.
87. Reinforcement for paper plates.
88. Mark the handle of the decaf coffee pot so it is easily identifiable from regular.
89. Reinforce old packing boxes.
90. Hold the back on the TV remote.
91. Tape up a mirror over the bed for a more romantic evening.
92. Quickie hinge.
93. Hold down loose carpet.
94. Secure wiring or chords down across the floor to avoid tripping.
95. Patch a vinyl siding hole.
96. Hold rubber roofing seams together until you can get the roofing sealer.
97. Secure a political poster picture up for dart practice.
98. Paint a straight edge, a substitute for blue painters tape.
99. Make lawn ornaments.
100. Prom dress. Yep, just Google it.
101. Use as a metaphor (sticky and inexpensive) for marketing your business...as in "Duct Tape Marketing"!

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BiOrb freash water fish tank

My new tank, which is yet to be completed with decoration....really just a centre piece for the house entrance.

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Choosing a Freshwater Aquarium For Your Home

I don't like the term fish tank. I prefer to call it an aquarium. This is because an aquarium isn't just a tank for holding fish. It is a living environment and also a thing of beauty for your home. If it is well set up and maintained, then your fish will stay healthy and it will remain looking attractive and enhance your home.

So you need to start off with a great looking aquarium if it is to remain a healthy and attractive environment for your fish. It must also fit in with your own decor. If you have a home full of antiques, then the latest bright red biOrb tank probably isn't for you. This article offers advice on choosing the perfect home for your fish.

Not too many years ago, aquariums were five pieces of glass fixed into an angle iron frame with putty. This was probably balanced on a black or white tubular metal stand, with various wires and tubes hanging from the back of it. Then came silicone sealants and the advent of the all glass tank. These coupled with the modern day wooden cabinets and state of the art all-in-one setups like the BiOrb range have brought fish keeping into the twenty first century. All you need to do now is to choose the aquarium which is right for you and your home.

Location

Do try to locate your aquarium somewhere where it can be seen as often as possible. After all, if you are going to spend good money on it, you want to be able to see it as much as you can. It also means that you are more likely to spot any problems quickly before too much harm is done.

You also need to take the weight of the tank into account. At school I was taught the (almost) rhyme "a pint of water weighs a pound and a quarter, a gallon weighs 10 pounds". Take into account the weight of glass and gravel and you will see that this soon becomes an incredible weight. Either ensure that you have a piece of furniture which will withstand this weight easily or invest in a purpose built stand. Bear in mind that you will need a suitable nearby power point and a water supply from which to fill it.

Shape

The most common shapes of aquarium are hexagonal, rectangular or circular. Some rectangular aquariums also have a bowed front creating a very stunning visual effect. Obviously the shape has to fit into your chosen location but I would recommend trying to choose a shape which gives as much surface area as possible for the volume of water. Rectangular fish tanks are best for this as the larger surface area allows for the best absorption of oxygen and exchange of gases, giving a healthier aquarium and environment for your fish. Other shapes are fine, but you may find yourself spending a little more time maintaining the water. You also won't be able to house as many fish as you would with another shape of aquarium.

Size

If this is your first aquarium setup, you may want to consider a 20 to 30 gallon aquarium. Anything larger can be a bit daunting for a beginner, not to mention pricey, but anything smaller can be harder to maintain and too easy to over stock with fish. If you do this the quality of your water will suffer and your fish may die. Whatever you decide on, please don't buy a tiny little fish bowl with 1 or 2 fish and no filtration. They are not healthy living environments for any fish, whose lives are in your hands.

Stocking

The rule of thumb for stocking should be 1 inch of fish per gallon of water in a well aerated and filtered aquarium. So, if you are starting out with a 30 gallon aquarium setup, you can have 30 inches of fish which will probably average out at about 10 - 15 fish. Remember they will grow.

Material

Not only do you have to choose the right size tank, but the material as well. There are two types of tanks on the market today, glass and acrylic. I personally prefer glass, many others prefer acrylic. Acrylic is certainly lighter and safer. A glass tank can be broken although I have never had this happen in over 30 years. Acrylic is also more easily scratched. The choice has to be yours. So in summary you need to plan ahead and consider the following:

Location and space available
Size and therefore weight
Aquarium shape
Number of fish
Availability of electrical power and water supply
Aquarium material
Cost

Choosing the right aquarium is very much down to personal preference, but you do need to consider the above facts to make the best informed decision. Getting this right from the outset will mean that you will enjoy this most rewarding hobby for years to come.

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Volcanic Action in Orangey and Streak's BiOrb

Goldfish meet volcano......

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Harry's volcano experiment

My son Harry erupting a volcano..... IT'S A WORK OF ART!

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BiOrb

I got this fun little aquarium as a gift! I love it! I set it up, and I am going to make a series of videos to show the progress of what is called a BiOrb. This is the 8 Gallon Version. Fully ready to go,is pretty much plug and play. This is day 4, after adding some plants, a couple crabs a lobster and 3 fish.

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Finding The Right Size Home Aquarium

There are three primary goals that you should keep in mind when it comes to finding the right size home aquarium.

The first goal that should be met is that it should be visually appealing and coordinate well with the décor of your home.

The second goal is that it should be functional.

Finally, the third goal is that it should work well both for your own needs and the needs of the fish and other sea life that you are housing within it. The main factors that you need to put consideration into then are the size, shape, location, materials and the type of water that you intend to use in your fish tank. All of these factors are essential in finding the right home aquarium and will be based on your needs and the needs of the fish that you buy.

When it comes to finding the right size home aquarium, it is important that you understand first and foremost that bigger is always better. Larger tanks are going to have more suitable filtration systems and filtration systems mean fewer requirements for maintenance. Smaller aquariums that do not have their own filtration systems can get dirty much quicker and will require a lot more cleaning and maintenance over time with no real end in sight. Fish are going to live longer and healthier lives in larger tanks with efficient filtration systems than fish housed in smaller tanks. You also need to put consideration into the size of the fish and the number of the fish living in the tank. Larger is always better here because the more space you have for your fish, the happier and healthier they will tend to be. The general rule of thumb is one inch of fish per gallon of water. So if you are housing 3" tropical fish, you can safely house about 8 fish in a 26 gallon tank.

The shape of an aquarium is another consideration to make, as it has an impact on the size of the aquarium and where in the home it can be placed. Larger aquariums are rectangle and this limits the places that they can be housed because they take up quite a bit of wall space. On the other hand, some larger aquariums are made to fit into corners, or to be taller rather than wider and these are ideal for tight spaces and places where there is not much horizontal space, but where corner space or vertical space is in abundance.

If wall space is scarce, there are plenty of aquarium options for you to choose from. Consider opting for a smaller aquarium that spans a counter or the top of an entertainment centre. Aquariums can be built into headboards, coffee tables, kitchen cabinets, and even into the tops of bars or other furniture, so there is no reason why you cannot find an aquarium that suits you. If you want an aquarium that fits perfectly with your home décor, there is absolutely no reason why you cannot find one.

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Opae'ula Hawaiian red shrimp in Biorb tank. Micro lobsters, Halocaridina ruba, Ecosphere

Opae'ula, Hawaiian red shrimp in a 8 gallon Biorb commercial spherical acrylic tank. Shrimp where originally purchased from Ecosphere associates in Arizona and FukuBonsai in Hawaii. They are going on 3 years total that I have had them. Started with approximately 25-30 and now there are at least 60-70. The shrimp have spawned at least 2-3 times that we have noticedl. Also a 6In. Ecosphere that I have unsealed. Both tanks are fed a very small amount of dried Algae shrimp food from FukuBonsai. I do a yearly 50% water change using filtered water and Instant Ocean sea/salt mixture. Use the following parameters when setting up a Opae'ula tank: Temperature 60F 85F, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, PH 8.2 8.4, Specific gravity 1.0125 to 1.015. David Fukumoto is an authority on the life history and care of these little shrimp. He refers to them as Micro-Lobsters on his website. Go to Fukubonsai dot com if you'd like to purchase some. He sells complete tanks and can offer much customer support. Good luck with setting up your own tank of Opae'ula

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Andy Angelfish in his new tank

80l Boyu Orca :) Andy is a very aggressive 7 year old Angelfish. He literally cannot be in a tank with anything, even Algae cleaners and he'll pin them into the corners! Previously in a 60l Biorb but I took him out as I felt bad for him due to the distorted shape (he seemed a bit subdued).

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5 Moon JellyFish in a 16gallon BiOrb Aquarium, purchased from JellyFishArt.com

This is my first aquarium I have ever had, and I decided to take the leap and get JellyFish! I purchased it from JellyFishArt.com, and they were very helpful with everything. It is a 16gallon BiOrb, and I have five 2-3 inch Moon Jellys in it. I currently have a UV Led in the aquarium light, but I also have a color changer one I will put in another video. If you have never had jellyfish but always wanted them, this is probably the best (cheapest) way to go about it.

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Aqualamp video 2

tropical aquarium table lamp. Aqualamp.

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How To Properly Introduce New Fish Into Your Aquarium

There are two areas of introducing new fish into an aquarium that you must be aware of:

1. Fish Quarantine

Fish quarantine is one big, singular factor that must be observed strictly before you can be sure that your new fish is of good health and not an apostle of doom for the other inmates. Most new fishkeepers don't take consider this very important factor.

For the benefit of intending aquarists, quarantine in the fish world refers to the physical and chemical treatment of new fishes (either imported or caught from the wild) to rid them of disease and restlessness before introduction into a new environment,

A small quarantine tank (30x20x25cm) is advisable for any serious aquarist. The alternative is to be sure that your pet shop has a functional quarantine section to cater for bacterial, fungal and viral diseases.

This is a sure guarantee against fish deaths. The unfortunate thing with most shops in the country is the lack of space and inadequate expertise to build and administer the prophylaxis procedure on new fish, as the procedure is sure to last at least nigh days! To the average aqua-investor, this is an unnecessary tie down of capital and you know what that means.

Admittedly, the expense incurred on quarantine by way of chemical purchase e.g. copper sulphate, wescodyne, malachite green, teremycin etc) is high. This is more or less reflected on the final sales price of the fish, which is slightly higher in our shop. But, this would pay you off in the long run, as it is unlikely that you will complain of fish deaths any longer.

I am quite sure, some fish farmers reading this column would be more concerned about the application of this procedure to solve their farm problems especially those with hatcheries or those who stock with post fry and fingerlings.

2. Feeding New Fish

When you just introduce a new fish to aquarium tank it's necessary to feed the fish. Though this will not be instant because no matter how carefully you add the fish to your aquarium tank they will look very unhappy for a while.

Thus it's necessary that you turn the flights out, and leave them overnight to get used to their new home first before thinking of feeding them. Then feed fish with aquarium fish food with fish flakes the next day, this will make the fish feel at home.

If you already have an established tank, it is advisable to quarantine new fish before adding them to an existing populated, and the cheapest way to do this is to purchase a plastic tank which will need no gravel or plants.

This can be used solely for quarantine and as a hospital tank.

Leave the fish in this tank for about three days during which any disease harbored by the fish would be evident for which it can be treated using available chemicals from your dealer. The fish can then be introduced into the tank in the same way as before.

When you add new fish to an established community, there will probably be a certain amount of harassment of the new arrivals by the original fish. Try to divert their attention by giving them a good feed when the fish are introduced.

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Temperature For Freshwater Aquariums

The name Tropicals, places too much emphasis on the idea of high temperature, for all exotic fishes. There is a number of them that do not come from the tropics, and a few of them that come from the tropics, do not come from particularly warm water.

It is understood that the majority of the exotic aquarium fishes, cannot stand cold water, and rightfully so,because the fish can get sick easier, and on the other hand, many of them do not prosper in the higher temperatures, because they need more oxygen than the water can carry.

Placing them all in water around 80 degrees, is not the kindness that the Aquarius thinks, who likes high temperature. The one thing you should not believe, is that each specie has an exact degree of heat. Most of them have a toleration of at least 10-degrees and can stand a 5-degree change over 8 hours, without injury.

As far as individual species is concerned, is to place delicate fishes in the the warmest and most consistent places, and the hardier ones in the cooler spots. I believe a great deal of needless worry and expense is given to trying to keep aquariums or aquarium rooms within 2-degrees of a fixed point.

Nature does not supply such an environment, and it has been observed that fishes are stimulated by some change of temperature. The aquarists should not be too concerned about the variation between the heat at the top and the bottom of the aquarium. The variation in native waters is considerable, but the fish seem to handle it without trouble. They can choose what level in the water they like.

It all comes down to this:The average exotic aquarium fish is happy at a average temperature of 72-76 degrees. At times, you should never let the temperature drop down below 70- degrees, and if it does it wouldn't hurt, but raise the temperature soon. Taking the temperature above 8o- degrees is alright, as long as their is enough oxygen in the water.

The breeding of most fish, means raising the water temperature above 80- degrees. If through uncontrollable causes the temperature drops down to low 60-degrees, or even 50-degrees, the thing to do is slowly raise it to about 80-degrees and keep it there for 24 hours or more.

The best way to keep a aquarium at the right temperature, is with a heater. Aeration equalizes top and bottom temperature. The most asked question is,"What size heater is required for a given gallon capacity?"This cannot be answered intelligently without knowing the amount of cold to overcome. A general rule is 2 watts for raising each gallon 5-degrees above surrounding temperature. I favor conservative sized heating units, then if a thermostat fails to function, the fishes won't fry.

It's alright for the fishes to swim from warmer to cooler water in your aquarium, but its entirely different changing them , from one tank to another, of which could vary in temperature of several degrees,either up or down. This is one thing that just must not be done. The effect may not be apparent at once, but it is seldom escaped. It usually brings about the "shakes" or "shimmies, "Ichthyophthirius (ick), fungus or a general decline downhill. Changes should be made within 2-degrees of the temperature. You should check thermometers because they can be off as much as 4-degrees.

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Choosing The Right Freshwater Tropical Fish

You have probably been to your local pet shop or aquarist dealer and seen a large variety of tropical fish to choose from. How do you go about choosing the right combination of fish for you?

You can't just choose any fish you like and expect them to all get along well together, it doesn't work like that - you need a plan.

Firstly, do you want a community aquarium or a species tank? A community aquarium will hold a variety of different fish that will all live in harmony with each other. A species tank, as the name suggests, will only hold one variety of fish.

Most people start with a community aquarium, and it is a very good place to start.

Before you work out exactly which fish you want, you need to work out have many inches (or centimetres) of fish you can accommodate in your new aquarium. A long, shallow tank will hold more fish than a short deep tank, because it is the amount of oxygen in the water that is more important than the actual quantity of water.

As a guide you can expect to be able to fit one inch of fish for each gallon of water, so a good place to start is to calculate the number of inches of fishes you can accommodate. This is measured from the mouth of the fish to the start of the tail, and don't forget to find out how big the fish will grow to, don't just look at the size of them in the shop as they will almost certainly grow.

How do you go about choosing the right fish for you? Firstly look around and see if there are any fish which you definitely want, and start your plan there. You need to know what size the fish you want will grow to, and how many you should keep together. Some fish are fine singly or in pairs, others only really thrive when they have friends to shoal with.

When you have chosen the fish you want to base your aquarium on, look to see how many you need to get, and how many inches they will use up. Next, will they live in harmony with all other fishes, or are there some they don't get along with? Also, take note of where they live in the aquarium. Some fish are bottom dwellers, some live mainly at the top, and others in the middle of the aquarium.

The best way to have a balanced aquarium is to have some fish that live in each level of the aquarium, as well as some fish that will keep the bottom clean, like corydoras. I also always like to have fish that will keep the sides clean, like a pleco (suckermouth catfish).

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Bala Sharks Vs Clown Loaches - Similarities and Differences

Bala Sharks and Clown Loaches are both very popular aquarium fish, but for different reasons. The Bala Shark (also known as the Silver Shark) looks a lot like a shark (go figure). The body shape and dorsal fin fit the traditional "great white" shark archetype and there is just something neat about having miniature sharks swimming around in your aquarium, even if the Bala Sharks are only minnows. The clown loaches are also popular for their appearance. The clown loaches have 3 vertical black bands on their bright orange body which makes for a lively looking fish. What the clown loach has above most other fish, is it's personality. They can be very outgoing and they have many strange behaviours, which earned them the name 'clown'.

Both bala sharks and clown loaches are shoaling fish, so you should definitely try to have at least 5 of each in your aquarium. If you keep bala sharks singly they may become aggressive and nibble on other fish in the tank. The clown loach on the other hand will become very stressed, its growth will be stunted and it may die. It is more pleasant for everyone involved if you keep these two fish species in groups.

Keeping them in groups can become a problem though. Both bala sharks and clown loaches can grow to be a foot long! When you buy them they are around 1-2 inches (2.5-5 centimeters) so they fit comfortable into smaller aquariums. Once they are grown however, a large aquarium (around 125 gallons) is recommended. That can be quite an investment for a hobby aquarist.

Both of these fish species are more susceptible than most to fish diseases, such as Ich. This means you can use them as a 'parrot' to let you know when there are potential problems in the tank. If you notice either of these fishes getting sick check the water quality immediately. If the water quality is normal try your best to diagnose the illness. There are many resources online and there should be someone at the local aquarium store that can help. Since the bala sharks or clown loaches have warned you about a potential problem you have a bit of a head start before the more hardy species become sick.

Before you begin to medicate your fish make sure that you know what is making them ill. You don't want to medicate for the wrong illness. Also, clown loaches are very sensitive to medication, so make sure you read the label for directions.

Bala sharks and clown loaches are not good fish for starter aquariums. They are very susceptible to "new tank syndrome". You will want to stock a new aquarium with more hardy species and allow the nitrogen cycle to cycle at least once before adding balas or clowns (this takes about 6-8 weeks).

Bala sharks and clown loaches both come from South East Asia and both are rarely breed in home aquariums. There actually have been zero confirmed cases of clown loaches breeding in aquariums.

If you are thinking about having both bala sharks and clown loaches in one tank you can rest assured knowing that they get along. Just make sure you have enough of each fish otherwise you may run into problems.

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biOrb mit gesunkenem Schiff

60 Liter Kaltwasser biOrb mit gesunkenem Schiff als Deko & 3 Schleierschwänzen

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How to Get Coralline Algae to Grow Faster in a Reef Aquarium

Part of the draw to reef aquariums are the colors of the fish,coral and especially the colorful purple live rock that are all found in the typical reef aquarium. That purple color is called coralline algae and it is a calcium based reef building algae.

It comes in many colors that include brown, green purple and even orange but purple is the most common. This algae will also spread to the walls of the reef tank adding to the color and visual impact. But in order to grow it needs the right environment.

While getting fish and coral to be colorful is fairly easy most people seem to struggle with getting their live rocks purple color to spread through their mini reef.

How Do I Get Coralline Algae To Grow Faster

Maintain Low Phosphates- High phosphate levels in a reef tank act like poison and can all but slow the growth of coralline algae. To avoid this make sure that you are using a good salt mix, purified water to make your saltwater and not over stocking or feeding your tank. A good protein skimmer and proper tank upkeep will also help to keep phosphates at low levels.

Keep Calcium Levels Up- The average calcium levels in the ocean is a around 400 PPM and any calcium based algae needs it to grow. The more available calcium the faster it will grow. Maintaining calcium can be accomplished with liquid or powered additives or with calcium reactors.

Maintain Proper Alkalinity Levels- Alkalinity must be maintained at the proper levels in order for coralline algae to grow at a fast rate. If the alkalinity levels get to low your growth will slow or stop. keeping alkalinity up is easy to do with additives or even frequent water changes.

Keep Predators Out- Certain animals like urchins or puffers can eat calcium based algae faster then they can grow. So if your goal is to have purple covered rocks and aquarium walls keep urchins and other coralline eaters out of you reef tank!

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Why Is Sand Such An Important Part Of Your Aquarium?

But the truth of the matter is that a sand bed in an aquarium can be very beneficial. First and foremost, sand provides fish with a more natural habitat, since that is what is actually present in the beds of their seas and oceans. You will find your fish happier in the sand and even spawning in them, which could be a delight to watch. Sand is not very difficult to clean too, if one does it in the right way. In fact, using sand in an aquarium makes it look more real and the fish enjoy is more than a gravel bed.

Live sand is especially beneficial to the organisms in your tank. Live sand is biological sand. It is pre-seeded with certain microscopic organisms such as bacteria and algae. These organisms help to clean the water in the tank and also produce the chemicals that are present in natural habitat. Live sand can be very expensive, such as live aragonite sand, but it is a very good option to have at the bottom of your tank, since it will not require maintenance. Not only does live sand clean itself due to the organisms present in it, but it will also contribute a major share in the internal cleaning of your tank.

There are many different types of sands available that can make good choices to your aquarium. The following is a list of some of the sand types that are used:-

Aragonite sand - Aragonite sand is the most expensive variety of sand available, and so it will not be a good choice for larger aquariums. However it helps in the buffering of the water and is fantastic for keeping the tank at an optimal chemical condition.



Silica sand - Silica sand is common beach sand, and it is very cheaply available. It is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, SiO­­2, which is a natural ingredient in sand. The plus points of this sand are that it is smooth and sifts easily. It is very easy to clean during setup and maintenance, and it is available very cheaply.



Coral sand - As the name suggests, coral sand is suitable for tanks that have corals as their inhabitants. Since corals can change internal levels of the tank, such as the nitrate levels and the pH values, drastically, it is wise to use this sand. Coral sand has a natural buffering action that can maintain the chemical composition of tank water at optimal values.



Black beauty - Though this is not actually sand, it is sold as such. Black beauty is actually solidified and powdered iron slag. It adds a contrast to the tank and is good for esthetic reasons. But the sand particles are sharp, so do not use this sand if you have fish that sift too much on the bed.


Cleaning of sand is a very important process, and must be done in the right way. These are the steps you must follow while cleaning sand:-

Take about two gallons of the sand in a capacious bucket.


With the help of a pipe, run water on the sand till half the bucket is full.


Then drain out the supernatant water. This will contain many floating dust particles.


Put water again, and this time, sift through the sand.


Again pour out the water.


Continue this process till the water you pour out is quite clear.


Thus, it is very easy to clean the sand in the tank, and that should not be a problem in deciding to use it as a bed product for your aquarium. Sand does add quite a bit of grace and naturalness to the tank, and fishes find it closer to their own natural surroundings.

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Tetras Are Popular Aquarium Fish

The Tetras are small or medium size fish belonging to the Characin family. They come from South and Central America and from Africa. There are hundreds of different types of tetras. Many of these fish are almost incredibly beautiful. Most of The South American tetras come from soft, acid water. All will survive fairly happily at 24 degrees C (75 degrees F).

Neon Tetra

When people say Tetra, they sometimes mean the Neon Tetra, Paracheirodon innesi. This is one of the most popular aquarium fish. The Neon and its near relatives, the Cardinal, Paracheirodon axelrodi, and the Green Neon, Paracheirodon simulans, are all small fish, subject to predation by larger fish. They are very suitable fish for a community aquarium of small, peaceful fish including the next group of tetras.

Other fish which are suitable companions for the Tetras of the Neon Group include Guppies, Endlers Guppies, Platies and the smaller species of Danio. Smaller specimens of many other species are also suitable companions.

The three species of this group all come from very soft, acidic water. Although they can be acclimatized to Neutral water, avoid letting the water get too alkaline.

Small Peaceful Tetras

There are many types of peaceful fish in this group. The tetras in this group include the Black Phantom, The Black Neon, Diamond, Flame, Head and Tail Light, Glass Bloodfin, Glowlight, Lemon, Penguin, Pristella, Rosy, Rummy Nose, Silvertip and Splashing.

Larger or More Aggressive Tetras

The Tetras in this group can be kept with each other, and with the tetras of the previous group, but caution is necessary if putting them with the three species of the Neon group. Some tetras slightly larger or more aggressive are: Black Widow, Blind Cave, Buenos Aires, Emperor, Paraguay, Red Eye, and Serpae. These Tetras are also suitable companions for the small to medium sized Barbs like the Tiger Barb, Gold Barb and Rosy Barb.

As always, be aware of the sizes of your fish and avoid putting large fish with very small ones. For example, the Paraguay Tetra is only in the third group of tetras because it can be a little aggressive, but it is a small fish. You would not want to put a small Paraguay Tetra with a large Rosy Barb. This is only a short overview of a few of the more common tetras. Before keeping any fish, or other animal, you need to be aware of their needs.

freshwater aquarium

Algae Control Guide For Marine Aquariums

This is a guide tailored to marine aquariums. While the basic premise can be applied to most situations regarding freshwater algae control, it cannot be used for freshwater planted aquariums. There's a bit more going on in planted tanks than meets the eye. So let us begin by naming the four musketeers.

* Hair Algae
* Red Slime Algae
* Brown Diatoms
* Dinoflagelletes

Listed above are the four most prevalent forms of problem algae marine aquarists face. Lets scratch off brown diatoms right away as it is the easiest of the four to get rid of. Just maintain zero phosphates for a week or two and it should disappear. Not so for the other three. Once they've got a hold on your aquarium it takes some long term algae control to be rid of them.

The reason pest algae growth is so prevalent in your tank (If you have this problem) is because they are getting energy from some source. The two sources we will be looking at are nutrients and lighting. Lets start with nutrients.

The next time you're in a department store, head on over to the gardening section and take a look at those packets of fertilizers. Some are suited to flowering plants while other claim to be better for green leafy plants and so on and so forth. What you'll probably see is something called an NPK rating stamped on these packets. Avid gardeners will know exactly what i'm talking about. They stand for Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K).

These three nutrients along with light and water are necessary for plant growth. Some need more of a specific nutrient or they don't do so well but that isn't true with regards to marine pest algae. The more nutrients they have, the better. They're not picky, have food = will spread. Thats their motto.

The nutrients we will be testing for are nitrates (NO3) and Phosphates (PO4). These two are directly correlated to the rate of pest algae growth that your system is experiencing.

Nitrates = Form of Nitrogen
Phosphates = Phosphorus

So these two nutrients are fertilizers. And our immediate goal is to reduce them to zero. And for that you will need a PO4 and NO3 test kit, a lot of extra salt mix for new aquarium water and a good PO4 remover media like Phosban.

Lets tackle NO3 head on. To reduce your aquariums nitrate levels as quickly as possible, water changes are needed. Direct export of the nutrient. If your nitrate readings indicated large water changes to reduce them to zero then i suggest splitting the up over a few days back to back. Do not change 80% or more of the aquarium water in one go. Do it gradually as the sudden change in water chemistry might affect the tanks inhabitants. The most i'll ever do in a day is a 40% water change.

During these water changes you want to siphon out as much fish waste, detritus and uneaten food as you can. Left in place, they all contribute to elevated nutrients. Manually remove the pest algae rock by rock until most of it is out of the tank. This is important as even the smallest amount can regrow and spread over your aquarium all over again. In large tanks this is a hassle, but it needs to be done. A 100% algae removal isn't necessary but the more you remove, the better.

Reducing PO4 is a much easier affair. While water changes also remove PO4, they tend to come back with a few feedings. Unless, you employ the use of phosphate removal media. I swear by them. Just add the directed amount per gallon in an area of high flow and you should see you levels plunge. They must be zero for it to be effective. Some good brands to use are Phosban, Rowaphos and Phosguard. Available at most pet stores.

Next, we look at lighting. Whens the last time you changed your bulbs? If they are older than 6 months then you might want to change them as older bulbs tend to emit light from the red spectrum. And these algae really thrive in such lighting conditions. Also, lower your daily photoperiod to 5 or 6 hours if possible. Most soft corals (mushrooms, leathers etc) will do fine with lower lighting but an SPS dominated tank might suffer. Up to your discretion.

Follow this regiment for a solid month straight and you should see results at the end. You need to ensure the tank is clean of detritus and any new algae growth during this period to be successful.

saltwater tanks aquarium decorations

Keeping Your Aquarium Clean

Before you buy an aquarium and fill it with fish, you need to find out what is involved in freshwater aquarium maintenance. One thing you cannot do with success is buy a group of fish, place them in your tank and then think that all you have to do is feed them. Aquariums are a lot of fun but they are not maintenance free. You need to do everything you can to keep your fish healthy and happy.

One of the things you can do to limit freshwater aquarium maintenance is to start out by equipping your aquarium with the best equipment and the right types of fish. For instance, a power filter is the answer to making your tank the most user-friendly. With one of these filters, you do not have to worry much about odors, cloudiness or water impurities. All you have to do is change the filter once a month and you are good to go.

A fish that can help you clean

When you fill your aquarium with fish, get a bottom dweller. These fish are more than worth their keep because they live on the bottom and keep the gravel and plants clean from any food that has fallen down there. They also keep the bottom of the tank algae-free. One of the best algae eaters and a real boon to freshwater aquarium maintenance is the plecostomus. This fish's name has lots of letters and is hard to pronounce but it is the easiest solution to algae problems. They come in all sizes.

Daily fish checkups

Each day you should check to make sure that there is no leftover food floating around tank. Only feed an amount of food that your fish can eat in three to five minutes. Feeding too much food will make the water in the tank cloudy. Also check to make sure that your water is clean, your heater is working (if you have fish that need one) and that the lights are going on and off when they are supposed to. The biggest thing is, of course, to make sure there are no sick fish in the tank.

Ideally, you need to have a small tank all ready to go for isolating sick fish. Not everyone does but it will make life a lot easier if you can manage to have one. A sick fish should be isolated until you can determine what is wrong with him or her and whether or not the illness is contagious. This is especially critical with an injury as a fish that is not well will often be mistreated by the other fish in the tank. If the fish does have a contagious disease, you will have to treat all the other fish as well.

Aquarium cleaning

Freshwater aquarium maintenance means changing the tank water every two weeks. While this is necessary, it is not always the thing people most love about having an aquarium. Luckily, you only need to take out about 20% of the water, not all of it. Around once a month you will want to do a more thorough cleaning, where you take out one-half of the water. This too is when that second tank is going to come in handy. If you have one, you can keep the water in it just right so that when you clean the primary tank, you can move all the fish into the backup tank.

Water is usually removed from the tank using a siphon and fish are moved from one tank to another with a net. If you have to clean your tank with the fish still in it, be very careful not to hurt any of the fish.

A two-week cleaning means using a sponge to scrub the inside and outside of the aquarium. Do not ever use soap. A small amount of salt applied to the sponge will clean the glass beautifully. Either rinse or change your filter. Check the hoses if you have an air filter in your tank, and use a gravel cleaning device to get the substrate clean. If you have a bottom dwelling fish, this will be much easier as he will already have done most of the job.

Tank refills

When you do your monthly cleaning, take out all of the structures and plants and clean them with water and salt as well. Check the pH of the water to make sure it is what it's supposed to be. The best way to fill your tank up again after a cleaning is to use distilled water and heat it up to the right temperature before adding it. Tap water should only be used in an emergency as it is never the best choice for your fish. It often contains chlorine and other organisms which can be deadly to fish.

The biggest thing to remember about freshwater aquarium maintenance is that you must never change all of the water at once. Only add a small amount of water to the pre-conditioned water in the tank--not more than 20% weekly or 50% when you clean the whole tank.

Fish are a wonderful hobby and you can spend endless hours engrossed in watching their movements and behavior. Make sure that you help them to be as healthy as possible by feeding the right types of food and performing regular freshwater aquarium maintenance.

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Caring For a Saltwater Tank - Simple Tips to Make Your Marine Aquarium Care Fast and Easy

Caring for saltwater tanks is not a hard or complicated process like so many people think. All it really takes is a good maintenance plan and the ability to follow through with it. Below you will find a very simple marine aquarium maintenance plan that if you follow will help you keep a healthy saltwater aquarium for many years.

Good Saltwater Tank Care

Before you dive into taking care of your saltwater tank you need to separate the things that need to be done into daily, weekly and monthly tasks. By doing this you will be more efficient in your aquarium care as opposed to trying to get it all done one day a month.

Marine Aquarium Care Broken Down

Daily Requirements

The fish must be fed but not overfeed
Look over your fish for any signs of disease,injury or stress
Make sure all fish are accounted for and remove any that may have died
Look at the tanks temperature and make sure its in the safe range
Give all filters and pumps a quick check to make sure they are working properly

Weekly Requirements

Add freshwater to replace any water that has evaporated
Using aquarium safe cleaners wipe off the stand and the outside of the aquarium
Clean the front glass using aquarium safe cleaner
Using a magnetic cleaner clean the glass on the inside of the aquarium

Monthly Requirements

Perform a 20-25% water change, this can actually be done in two smaller changes if you have a large tank.
Clean the tanks gravel by vacuuming it when changing the water
Clean your filters and pumps and replace all filter pad material and filter media like activated carbon
Complete water tests to monitor nitrate and phosphate levels
Sit back and enjoy your saltwater tank. This is something that not to many people actually do this and instead get caught up in caring for saltwater tanks.Watching your tank is one of the best parts to owning a marine aquarium so enjoy it.

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BiOrb 60 mit 6 Guppys

Hier seht ihr mein BiOrb 60 Liter .... Besatz: 2 Guppymännchen und 4 Guppyweibchen

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Protein Skimmers

A protein skimmer is a device used mostly in marine aquariums that generates a column of bubbles that waste from the tank will stick to and rise to the top of the tank then deposit these pollutants into the collection cup where they can be removed and disposed of. This aids in water quality and keeping waste buildup from forming on the walls of your tank. The size of the protein skimmer you need to purchase will depend how large your tank is and how much your budget allows. Some enthusiasts recommend to purchase a skimmer that is slightly larger than what your tank requires. They claim this will save you on maintenance and keep your skimmer working properly for a longer period of time while keeping your aquarium water at the highest quality possible.

Here is a brief description of different types of protein skimmers.

Co-Current Skimmer: This type is best for small systems between (20-30 gal). They are considered to be the cheapest and most unreliable skimmer. They are prone to the air stone getting clogged overtime which will damage the pump if left unchecked.

Counter-Current Skimmer: More efficient than the Co-Current skimmer. Water enters the top of the skimmer while air enters the bottom, while they pass one another the pollutants of the water stick to the bubbles and flow into the collection cup while the water continues back into the tank.

Venturi Skimmer: This skimmer creates a high-pressure jet of water with an air valve, using the pressure to draw in air with the water. They are very efficient but can require a somewhat pricey pump to keep it going.

Turbo (Needle Wheel) Skimmer: The most expensive and considered to be the most efficient skimmer. They use a small wheel to whip the air into a bubbly froth creating a thick column of small bubbles that pulls the pollutants out of the water and into the cup.

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How to Set Up a Biorb Aquarium

Video showing how to set up a biorb aquarium and what comes with the biorb aquariums

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55 Gallon Aquarium - The Water Needs Changing

55 gallon aquariums just like any other size of aquarium need to be cared for correctly in order to establish the right kind of environment for the fish residing in the tank. One thing that needs to be done regularly is that you need to change some (not all) of the water in your 55 gallon aquarium on a regular basis, in order to remove waste and debris that has built up in it, and replenish essential nutrients that have been lost.

When you actually change the water in your aquarium will depend largely on whether it is cold water, tropical or reef tank. Also it will depend on whether the water being replaced comes from a tap or is purified.

What you need to remember is although you may have the best filtration system in your aquarium, it will not be able to remove every single piece of waste of nitrates from it. Also these filtration systems do not have the capability of being able to replenish those essential nutrients and minerals in the water that the fish will need.

55 Gallon Aquarium - How Often Should The Water Be Changed?

With a 55 gallon aquarium you should be changing around 25% of the old water for new every week or so, in order to keep nitrate levels in the tank low. If you are going to be using water directly from a tap then before adding it, you need to check its hardness and pH levels. Today you can buy specialist kits either from your local aquarium supply store on online that will see if you need to do anything to the water to get the chemical composition right before adding it to the tank.

When changing water in your aquarium, make sure that you check the levels of nitrate in the water you are adding. If you find that the levels of nitrate in the water you are going to be adding exceed 40 parts per million, then you need to use an alternative water source or fit your aquarium with a water purifier.

55 Gallon Aquarium - Water Changing Equipment

To change the water in your aquarium you will need two buckets and a siphoning kit. All these items can be purchased either through your local aquarium supply store or by going online. What you should never do is use these items for other tasks around the home other than to change the water in the aquarium so, no using the buckets to wash your car.

If you intend to store water that you will then be putting into your aquarium in the future, make sure that the containers are made from a food grade plastic. If not then the chances of chemicals leaching into the water being stored in them is increased, and these can prove to be harmful to the fish in your aquarium.

Plus you must make sure that the containers are kept in a dark location to prevent algae growth in the water, and installing an air stone in them will ensure that oxygen is being supplied to it, and this in turn will keep the water fresh. These items can also help to keep the pH levels at a normal level in the water as well. If water is left to stand (not aerated) over time it can turn acidic and adding such water to your 55 gallon aquarium can cause problems for the fish and marine life it.

Aquarium Shrimp

Aquarium shrimp have a big presence in the aquarium hobby be it saltwater or freshwater. In this article we will deal strictly with marine aquarium shrimp. While most people think of fish when someone mentions aquariums, our little invertebrate friends are also a common feature in such tanks.

While there are thousands of shrimp species that can be found in our oceans, we get only a small portion of the variety in the marine aquarium trade. The people that know this best are the collectors themselves and scuba divers that also happen to love the saltwater aquarium hobby.

There are a vast majority of species still not brought into the hobby regularly. But perhaps that is a good thing simply because there is big demand for aquarium shrimp in the hobby. Perhaps the majority of them should be left alone in their natural habitats instead of see wild stock deplete over time due to the marine aquarium trade.

But less talk about the industry and more talk on aquarium shrimp. There are three species that are by far the most popular and recognizable shrimp in the saltwater hobby. They are the coral banded shrimp (Number one), scarlet cleaner shrimp (number two) and the breathtaking fire shrimp (number three).

All of them are are reasonably priced and do very well in captivity. They are generally hardy and will feed on a variety of foods offered. But most aquarium shrimp tend to do well in captivity as long as the water quality is decent, they are fed well and there is enough calcium in the water to facilitate the molting process.

Other not so common species include the mantis shrimp, pistol shrimp, anemone shrimp, harlequin shrimp and sexy shrimp. Mantis shrimp are kept by true enthusiasts that usually set up a species only aquarium just for them. This is because mantis shrimp are likely to prey on any crustaceans and fish within their aquarium.

aquarium stand

How to Care For Aquarium Fish

The easiest way to have a pet without sacrificing too much of your time is to have an aquarium. Just ensure you follow these guidelines to provide a healthy and conducive environment for your marine friends. There is some maintenance work to be done daily, while others requires some of your time weekly. The daily actions you need to do daily is actually very simple. Observe your fish tank everyday for a few minutes to check that all the fish are looking good and showing no health problems. It may be surprising for you to know that fish do suffer from stress as well. Check the lights and the filters of the aquarium daily to see if they are working correctly and they are properly plugged. Feed the fish daily. Your fish must be able to consume the food you give them in 2 to 5 minutes. Excess food that is not consumed will sink to the bottom and become debris, adding to the nitrate levels and rising the toxicity of the water. Perform a pH test every week to see if the water pH level is still good. Make it a habit to make the necessary changes immediately. Ask the pet store where you got your fish from and they will tell you the exact pH for your fish. Not all species of fish require the same conditions.

Filter cleaning is extremely important. Filters do the all-too important job of accumulating all the excretory wastes of the fish. Since the filters will get accumulated with debris over time, they will not be able to filter properly if you don't clean them. Another job that the filters do apart from removing the waste is to circulating oxygen into the task. With bunged filters, you will not be able to have as good transmission of gases in your tank as you have with clean ones. Due to this, the available oxygen in the tank can go down. If you do not correct this, your fish may die. Do not keep the same filter for more than two to three weeks in the aquarium. As soon as your water begins looking dirty and has an offensive odor, you must clean your filter. The kind of filter you are using will decide whether you need to simply clean the filter with water or to replace it entirely.

The proper way to change water in a tank is to do it gradually. Before cleaning your aquarium, make sure to unplug all lights and other fixtures. Change only about one in three parts of the water of the fish tank on a weekly or biweekly basis. If you are adding tap water, you may need to treat it before putting it into the aquarium. When purchasing fish for your aquarium, ask your local retailer about the water requirements. Short term treatment for the tap water could be for about half an hour, but you may sometimes need to treat the water for the whole night too.

When cleaning the tank, clean from the sides to scrub out any buildup of alga. Be careful not to disturb or scare the fish. You will have to move about the rocks in your tank too because this loosens the residue collected under them and make them come to the surface from where you can remove them. A siphon or a small bucket may be used to remove this debris which you can do when you are replacing the water. An important part of cleaning is to remove the withered leaves from the aquarium plants. Clean the outside of the tank with a squeegee and clean tap water. Do not forget to clean the cover of the tank, from the inside and the outside. Plug everything back into the aquarium, sit back and take the pleasure of your newly cleaned aquarium.

saltwater tanks aquarium equipment

Why is the Water in My Aquarium Green?

Green water is most often the result of an algae bloom. It often has turned an aquarium into what appears a thick pea soup. It is extremely unsightly in the novice's aquarium, and is extremely difficult to eradicate, even for the advanced fish keeper.

Green Algae is a single celled plant that uses light to photosynthesize. The plant itself is extremely small, only a single cell, and when conditions are right, will multiply quite rapidly. Green algae reproduces either asexually by buds, or in a second step, it sexually combines with other cells to product new plants with full chromosome content. These in turn grow buds and the process starts all over again. When this replication spirals out of control and overtakes an area, this is called a bloom. The major problem is that the algae plants are so small they are rarely removed by any standard filter, and even those that are trapped tend to clog the materials, slowing the flow and allowing more algae to remain in the actual aquarium water since the intake suction is reduced to continue the bloom.

The right conditions for a bloom include adequate fertilizer and light. In most cases in the home aquarium, even a new tank, the fertilizer needs are easily met. The only limiting factor for plants is phosphate, and most aquariums have more than enough to support a massive bloom if the lighting is adequate.

The most important factor when green water occurs is light. In my experience, in the great majority of the cases where a bloom occurs, natural light is allowed to strike the aquarium. The actual time when sunlight enters the aquarium can be quite brief, ten to twenty minutes a day seems to be enough. A very brightly sunlit room can also have the same effect.

Because of the size of the plant, and the very fast replication, eradicating an algal bloom is extremely difficult.

I do not advocate adding algicides, in many cases they may cause harm to the fish, I prefer a natural solution rather than employing strong toxic compounds.

A number of small water changes, about 10% per time spaced a day apart will dilute the cloud, but still leave it tinted green in most cases. This can be combined with more homeopathic actions. The most effective way is to remove the light source. If the sun is striking the tank from the rear or side, use a background to cover and block the entry of light. If the room is very bright, draw the shades during a greater part of the day to reduce the amount of light the algae can use. As a last resort, disassemble the aquarium and move it to a place that is much darker and use artificial lighting for the aquarium. Unless the tank is heavily planted with aquarium plants, the amount of light the fish receive is not particularly important.

The above is the best way to control the problem for the long term. Sunlight is extremely powerful, and is no friend to an aquarium. The other area that can be manipulated and controlled by the aquarist is the amount of available phosphate in the aquarium. This chemical compound is considered to be a limiting factor, if there is not enough of it, the plants are not able to grow. Just like reducing the sunlight limits the algae from photosynthesizing so that they starve and die back, limiting the phosphate will also inhibit the growth of algae from a metabolic constraint. At extremely low levels of phosphate, aquarium plants as well may suffer. Generally a balance exists between algae and live aquarium plants, when standard plants are thriving, they are much better at competing for available phosphate and get what they need first, so algae often is over whelmed. A rooted aquarium plant is able to extract nutrients from the soil as well, so reduction of dissolved phosphates in the water column is normally not a handicap for standard aquarium plants, rather they are much better able to compete and win against free floating algae.

Introduction of phosphate comes every time the fish are fed, as it is a component of the food. Fish require some phosphate for their metabolic processes, but rarely as much as is provided in the food. Some manufacturers have recognized this and consciously reduced the amount of phosphate in the foods they offer. Careful feeding with low phosphate foods will reduce the amount available for algae to use for themselves.

If there is still too much, the use of a phosphate remover resin will help keep the concentration low and prevent sudden blooms of algae. There are a variety of these products available on the market. Most require that they be added tot he higher flows of the filter and will remove a set amount of phosphate when they have been exhausted.

From a purely homeopathic viewpoint, I also use a biological sludge eliminator that helps break down the waste materials, from all sources, food, fecal mater and other decaying organic material. These bacteria teams incorporate phosphate into their biomass, thus preventing it from being available for free floating algae to exploit.

Sometimes the only thing that will do is a rapid fix, there are some floculants on the market that will help. A floculant will attract the algae as well as any other suspended particles into larger diameters clumps to allow the filter to remove them through its screens. Use a poly wool or filter floss in the filter rather than the regular filter materials. It is cheaper and, believe me, you will need to discard the material immediately after use. Poly Wool is the best trap for this treatment. Do not overdose. The downside to these products is that the clumping action will reverse and it will be even harder to clear the tank if you do!

Algae is rarely ever totally removed from an operating aquarium, most of the time some variety is anchored to hard surfaces, but the types that produce green water are suspended in the water column. They will gradually reduce to invisible populations when denied natural sunlight or enough phosphate to grow. Live rooted plants under artificial light have a better competitive advantage to grow and prevent algae explosions of any type. It seems the two are antagonistic, and there is very rarely a problem with algae in a strongly growing live planted aquarium.

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http://biorb-aquariums.blogspot.com tips and how to find information.

Welcome to my http://biorb-aquariums.blogspot.com/ Here you will learn about BIORB Aquariums tips and how to find information.